Galicia Attractions: Rosalia de Castro House & Garden in Padron
Most visitors to Galicia, one of my favoured Europe destinations, in the North/Western province of Spain, will probably fly into Santiago de Compostela. Whilst there is a lot to do and see in Santiago, the city is also an ideal starting point for trips and excursions to lesser known parts of Galicia which are full of history, charm and vast expanses of Galicia’s rich, green vegetation.
Always on the outlook for unusual sights and museums in particular, I was delighted when one morning, having my café con leche and tarta de Santiago in my favorite cafeteria, the owner told me a Europe travel tip about the house and gardens of Rosalia de Castro in Padron.
Rosalia de Castro
I had read some verses of Galicia’s most celebrated 19th century poetess, feminist and fighter for the underprivileged who, despite achieving world wide acclaim in her later years of life, remained a modest person with a deep love for nature and her favorite flower, the camellia. Needless to say that, after I had polished off the last crumbs of the delicious tarta, I was on my way.
Padron is located approximately 45km south of Santiago and can be reached either by car, taking Highway 550 in the direction of Pontevedra or, as I did, by train. Once you get off at the tiny train station, the difference to the tourist and pilgrim crowds in Santiago is striking. Hardly a soul in sight, no traffic noise, just two train tracks which you have to cross the reach Rosalia”s house “Casa de Matanzas” surrounded by a beautifully tended park and garden full of camellias which, in June, were in full bloom. It’s also one of those Galicia attractions which not many tourists seem to know about and at the time there were only two other visitors who were from Madrid.
After getting an eye full of the green trees and sniffing the camellias, I entered the house and museum proper. Admission is free, but you can make a donation. A lady is perched behind a tiny reception desk and will tell you anything you want to know. It was Casa de Matanzas were Rosalia spent her last years with her husband and seven children until she died in 1885.
Blooming Camelia in Rosalia's Garden
The ground floor contains documents, photographs and awards she received, many of them posthumous. The real charm however lies in the rooms of the first floor. Her clothes are still hanging in her closet, her bedroom looks as if she would return any moment and her desk holds manuscripts. Used to modern kitchen appliances it is a treat and a marvel to see how Rosalia managed to feed her large family.
Bed of Rosalia de Castro
Kitchen of Rosalia de Castro
There is even more to see in Pardon. Crossing the narrow stone bridge over the Rio Sar, you come upon a tiny but beautiful botanical garden. Plaza Baltar is surrounded by the typical medieval stone houses which abound in many of Galicia’s towns, churches and statues. Padron is also the location of the Fundacion Camilo Jose Cela, another of Galicia’s literary geniuses which houses his vast library and memorabilia.
Plaza Baltar/Padron
Visiting Padron, you get an insight into Galicia’s history and literature and learn about two of Spain’s most important writers in one single place. And, of course, you get your fill of any conceivable kind of Galicia’s national flower.
